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Korean comfort food...mmm...

I went with my friend Michelle for 삼계탕 (samgyetang, or chicken ginseng soup) again the other day after our quiz in class, and it did not disappoint here's my bowl, which you can't tell from the picture, but it comes out in a rolling boil:


Yes, that is a whole little chicken (like a cornish game hen) all up in my soup! It's stuffed with Korean sticky rice, what I think are jujubes, and that stick coming out is the ginseng, all of which is so tender and you just eat it all. You have another small bowl for taking out pieces of the chicken and rice and taking out the bones - I can debone that sucker with my chopsticks like a pro now, but it helps that the meat just falls off the bone. I'm already planning when I'll eat this again before I have to leave next week.

Another delight was this abalone rice porridge, which sounds kind of crazy, I know, but porridges here are savory and flavorful. This one was only about $5 at a small shop we stopped at on our lunch break near Sogang University:


Well, I've been lucking out pretty well in the food arena lately, so I was bound to come across a couple disasters eventually. The first was at this chain restaurant called Paris Baguette, which is EVERYWHERE, as in you can't walk 3 blocks without passing another one. Their stuff is trying to be European, but it definitely has the whole "east meets west" kind of thing going on, and not on purpose. I've never seen most of the stuff there in Europe or the States. My mistake there was getting something that was called "pizza bread", as I needed just a snack, not a full meal. With that name, you have a few expectations, like tomato sauce, cheese, maybe some toppings. Well, it had some sort of tomato sauce - closer to ketchup, to be honest - and a couple chunks of pineapple and black olives, and some weird-looking cheese. However, upon first bite, it tasted so weird. The cheese melted in my mouth and had a gross flavor. When I inspected it, I discovered the deceit: the "cheese" was actually mayonnaise baked onto it to look like cheese. There is little in this world I abhor more than mayonnaise, and mayonnaise in disguise is just plain rude.

This was another mistake:


This is a sweet rice drink called shikhye, which they've served to us in the cafeteria and I really liked. It's kind of like horchata, but not so milky. The canned version: 2 unenthusiastic thumbs waaay down. I guess canned anything will be a million times worse than the real stuff. I was bound to be burned by something sooner or later.


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What's behind door number 2?

I've noticed this in enough bathrooms (including on campus in the building where my classes are) to post about this:



What's the difference between these two stalls, you ask? Well, I'm sure you can guess from the picture on the left door what would be behind it, but what's that picture on the right door? Lemme help you:


Yup, it's a squatter. More hygienic, some would tell you, and it makes sense as to why. Your skin doesn't make contact with anything on there. I've even used some before in rural Italy, but after 29 years of the other facility, I think I would have a hard time getting used to this.


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야구 (yagu, baseball) + 노래방 (noraebang, or karaoke rooms) = Friday Night Fun

Oh people, let me tell you - Seoul was made for fun times Friday night. We didn't have culture class again today due to our fieldtrip in the evening, so Michelle and I found a place to get some samgyetang, or chicken ginseng soup. I think it's one Korean dish everyone would enjoy. It feels like comfort food, but it's waaaaay better than just chicken noodle. They cook a whole chicken stuffed with sticky rice and ginseng in a yummy chicken broth that's unlike anything I've ever had before. And because it has ginseng in it, it's supposedly gives you energy, especially in the summertime. Since we each got individual servings, rather than one huge pot for several people to share, we got our own little tiny chicken in our bubbling clay pots. I was going to take a picture, but we were the only foreigners in the place, and I didn't want any more attention drawn to me. Next time, though...


Oh, funny unrelated side-note: I don't know how it began, but one of my Korean teachers and I started talking about our celebrity crushes during one of our breaks yesterday morning, and I inadvertently dissed her crush, an actor named Hyun Bin. He's good-looking, but I said he was too skinny, even by Korean standards. Oops. There was no recovering from that. I made her feel better by confessing my love for Sung Shi Kyung, so I think she was appeased that her crush is more conventionally handsome. Phew.

View of Yeouido Island from the bus on the way to the game

The reason we didn't have afternoon class is that the program was taking us all to a Korean pro baseball game in the evening, between the Doosan Bears (who we were rooting for), and the LG Twins. It was unlike any American baseball experience I've ever had, and it was soooo much better!

Arriving at our seats in the stadium

Doosan Bears mascot (why are most mascots bordering on creepy?)

The game is starting!

First pitch!

The stadium was so packed!

So one of the main reasons this was so different than American games was that the crowd was so passionate. They had all these songs and chants (some even for a few individual players!), complete with beats and choreography with the thundersticks, and EVERYBODY knew all the words and movements. It was like being in a giant musical, or the biggest karaoke room in the world. I'll have to post some video clips when I get back to the States, because it's kind of unbelievable without seeing it.

I got to explain the game of baseball to my friend Michelle from Hong Kong, which was actually pretty fun. We were all yelling and cheering, and it felt like "Foreigner Day" at the baseball field around our section, since we were all from the Korean Immersion Program.

My friend and classmate Giulia from Italy

My classmate London from Canada (and Simon, from Switzerland, with his back turned)

Classmate Cody, the only other one in my class from United States

The stadium was packed!

Giulia, Claudia (also from Italy), and I

Melinda (from Singapore) and I, the eonni/noona (older sister) and emo (aunt) of our class

There was so much good food at the game, and you could bring whatever food and drink you wanted to from outside into the stadium - can you do that in the States? Some Korean families even brought coolers. Here I am eating ddukbokki, or spicy rice cakes, I got from a stand outside the stadium:




You can't see in this picture, but this was a much older lady carrying a crazy ton of snacks for sale on her head - ouch!

Scoreboard - we were losing for the first 3 innings, but caught up with 6 runs in the 4th inning - it was amazing!

Most of my class as we were leaving the game - love these guys!

We had to leave the game before it ended due to our charter bus' schedule, so I don't know won, but that can be googled later.

We got back after 10pm, and I don't know if it was the adrenaline from the game or the ginseng from the soup earlier, but I was too hyped up to call it a night. So Alejandra, Michelle and I decided to go for an essential part of Korean nightlife: noraebang, or karaoke! So in America, we do karaoke by singing in front of a room of semi-sketchy strangers because we lost a bet, but here, you go to a noraebang and pay some money to rent a room for an hour or two to have your own karaoke party with your friends. See why it's so much better? No public embarrassment to mar our butchering of Korean pop songs.

Michelle and Alejandra getting ready to throw down some mad Kpop lyrics

Trying to figure out how to work the machine in Korean

Once we got the machine figured out, we just picked all our favorite Kpop bands and songs and tried to keep up. Turns out none of us are super-good at reading hangeul (Korean words) fast enough to keep up with most songs, so a lot of the song verses ended up more like "Nananananana ja! Dadadadada bwa!" - we could usually get the first and/or last syllable, unless we really knew the song well...which was almost never.

The super nice guy running the place came in to help us while we were trying to figure stuff out and was surprised/pleased to see that we knew how to read hangeul. We theorize that it was for this reason that he kept on adding time to our room for free. Either way, thank you noraebang ajusshi!

We didn't get back until 1am - it was close to the school, don't worry Mom - and between the baseball game cheering and noraebang-ing, my throat is a little worse for the wear. So worth it.







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Food-crawling through Seoul!

After mostly staying nearby Sogang University on Monday and Tuesday night due to quizzes and cleaning checks at the dorm, I was raring to get outta this place by Wednesday. We had taken our quizzes in class, so we didn't have any new material to learn, therefore the night was all mine.

I went with Michelle, a girl in my class from Hong Kong, but she goes to college in the States. We decided we needed grilled meat, and I had heard of this great place called the Outdoor Factory in Hongdae from the Canadian blogger couple, and we actually found it!


It is basically a Korean BBQ restaurant with the theme of outdoors/camping, so a lot of the tables are on a patio under an awning, you sit in camping chairs around a grill with real coals. The side dishes, lettuce, etc. comes on a metal tray, you drink out of camping cups, so it's just so fun.

Michelle waiting for our meat!

The waiters didn't speak much English, so they started speaking Korean to Michelle, we think because she's Asian. She is one of the best students in our class, but we're all beginners, and I think she gets flustered to use Korean in real situations, because she looked at them, and said, "Wait, what?" in English. The waiter then got nervous and started to run away, but by then I got the gist of what they were telling us (that the banchan, or side dishes, were self-serve, and where it was located), so I called out to him and said I understood in Korean. The look on his face was priceless, as he heard more Korean from the Western girl than from the Asian girl. What can I say, I just really know my food terminology. After that, they spoke to me.
I've noticed that a lot, especially when I'm with Asian people, no matter their ethnicity, people will automatically talk to them in Korean on the off-chance they're Korean, and talk to me in English. However, I always try to respond in Korean if I can. After all, what else am I here for?

Before

After!

We got samgyupsal and moksal, both pork, both delicious. Those white stick-looking things are mushroom slices, and we also grilled some garlic. When the meat is starting to get done, you cut it with scissors into smaller pieces and move it away from the center. When it's done, you get a piece, dip it in seasoned soybean paste sauce, put it in a leaf of lettuce with garlic, mushrooms, kimchi, etc., wrap it up, shove it all in your mouth, and enter meat paradise. It was sooo yummy!

Then we walked around the alleyways in Hongdae, which are filled with cute cafes, vintage shops, and cool buildings like this one: 


We were craving some good patbingsoo, or red bean shaved ice/ice cream dessert. We found the most perfect one. 

Patbingsoo is made to share!

There's a layer of shaved ice, sweet red bean sauce, ice cream, chocolate drizzle, ddeok (chewy rice cake) with more red bean, and frosted flakes (we think) to top it all off. Lest you think the cereal was weird, let me tell you, it was delicious. It had a good crunch when we stirred it all up, and I might be adding it to all my ice cream from now on. And this ddeok was absolutely wonderful, which is what Alejandra and I were looking for when we got the ddeok from the devil the other night.

Here's the cafe we got it in:

Once we had that good ddeok, we wanted more, so we googled a good ddeok shop in Seoul. Let me reiterate not to trust internet directions for places in Seoul, because it led us on a wild goose chase around Insadong, which was not fun. We found a place with some ddeok, but settled for whatever was left by the time we got there:

Cute chocolate steamed bun with apricot filling

If you look in the reflection in the window, I'm on the left side, and this really tall Korean guy is right up next to me on the right side. There was a lot of room on this subway on the way home, but this dude parked it right next to me and played on his phone. Weird.

Ok, I think I'm about as caught up as I can be at the moment. Hope you guys are having a great summer! Happy Pioneers Day!







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Mom, this one's for you!

I met up with my Korean language exchange partner, Sunmi, again on Sunday afternoon. She took me to a different palace, called 덕수궁, or Duksoogoong. I think it was the last palace inhabited by a Korean king before the Japanese occupation of Korea. It's a bit smaller, but it was still beautiful. 
We got to see the changing of the guard ceremony before we went in, and it was so cool:



You can barely see it on the right-hand side, but there was this huge drum the guy in green played sometimes, and you could feel it in your gut when he hit it.


Sunmi made me pose for a cheesy picture with some of the actors in the ceremony afterwards, but she wouldn't pose for a picture herself. Just trust me when I tell you she's super-pretty. I'll try to sneak a picture of or with her next time.


Coffee was introduced to Korea around the turn of the century, and the last king liked it so much, he had this pavilion built exclusively for him to drink coffee. We got to go in, take our shoes off, and sit at his table. It's good to be the king.

Throne room and courtyard

Back of throne room




Here's where it started looking familiar - Mom, brace yourself, you might want to be sitting down. Sunmi told me this is where the Korean TV show "Goong" (Palace) was filmed, which was the first ever Korean show I watched, and Mom watched and loved it too. Marce, I think we watched the first episode of it. Needless to say, I was dying. In the good way, of course. Sunmi was surprised when I knew the drama, and I only hope I was able to contain my excitement so she couldn't tell I was going nuts inside.



This building (which is being reconstructed, hence the stuff at the bottom), was the only western style building in a palace in Korea, and now houses an art museum. We went inside to get tickets, when an ajusshi (older man) shoved a bunch of tickets in our hands and told us to go see the exhibit. Seemed pretty sketchy to us, but the ladies taking our tickets told us that he was actually really famous in the world of traditional Korean art, Hwang Pyung Woo. I've still got to google him to find out more.

Oh gosh, I still feel behind. I'll try to update on the rest of the week soon, but I've had quizzes yesterday and a baseball game tomorrow night - so little time! Love you guys.





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Saturday Adventure Time

This might be a super-long post, but it was a busy day on Saturday, and I have time now, so here goes...

Some friends and I signed up to go on a "Seoul Trekking" hike through parts of Seoul Saturday morning. A couple of the professors took us by subway and bus, then hiking up to Kilsangsa, which is a buddhist temple in a rich area of Seoul. The temple is not just a single building, like I would imagine, but more like a complex, complete with small dwellings for the monks (one of which asked us in Korean if we were British; alas, no), and for visitors to stay in. Apparently you can stay in a temple for free. They will feed you there too, but you have to wake up early and do tasks as part of the deal, but it still sounds pretty sweet.

Doorway into a small courtyard

Huge ceremonial bell near the main buildings

Main building of temple complex. Buddhist rituals and chants were happening at this time, but it felt disrespectful to take a video of that. P.S. I'm horrible at what Koreans call "selcas", or self-photos.

By the way, it was CRAZY hot, despite the clouds. Then we hiked up part of the fortress walls around old Seoul, which are several hundred years old:


It got pretty steep for a while here.


Above is a view of Seoul from the highest point we hiked to. Mind you, this is only part of the city. It pretty much surrounded the mountain we were on. You can't see it very well, but you can see some palaces in the middle part of this picture, and the tiny needle tower on the Namsan mountain (the dark green mountain in the background on the left) is Seoul Tower.

After that, we hiked down to an area called Samcheongdong, which is at the tail-end of my Bukcheon Hanok Village tour from my 2nd day. They had many nice restaurants, so we picked a good one (with air conditioning) even though we were gross and sweaty from hiking in the muggy heat. I ordered something I wasn't sure what all was in it, but sounded good, kalguksu (knife-cut noodles) with seaweed and abalone:


Guys, I know it looks crazy, but trust me on this one: it was sooooo delicious, and everybody at my table tried some and agreed. The seaweed was a special kind - it was made up of super fine strands, so it looked a little like green hair - just try and get past that imagery - but it has such a nice subtle flavor, not the strong seaweedy aroma you might be imagining. I had seen it on a Korean show before and wanted to try some, but thought it was unique to some coastal towns, not something I could find in Seoul, and the abalone was so tender, and it burned my tongue b/c it was so hot - loooved it. Gotta go there again.

On the walk to the subway station, I found this little gem:

A little much, admittedly, but at least less vague and possible creepy as this one:
Which would you choose - coffee, dessert, or me? Post your answers in the comments below.

And to round out the trifecta, here's what Alejandra and I found on our trek to the nearby area called Hongdae later that afternoon/evening:

What worries me the most is that it isn't just HO Bar, but HO Bar 2...there's more than one...

After getting a bit lost due to faulty internet directions (oh internets, why are you so full of lies?), we had a few missions to take care of. First on our list was going to the Hongdae Free Market in the Children's Park across from Hongik University:


There were at least a few dozen artists selling their crafts in this children's playground area, and apparently there are hundreds of artists who rotate every Saturday afternoon here, so maybe I'll try again next Saturday and see different things. Since it had been rainy, sales had been poor, so the artists were willing to give us deals. I scored a leather bracelet and earrings with jade and pearl for under $30 total. The lady selling bracelets even added some links to the bracelet so it would be looser on my wrist the way I liked it. They were all so super nice, and it was great to support artists directly, and not see the same mass-produced items over and over at touristy stalls around. 

Our next task was to find this place called Isaac (pronounced ee-sack) Toast:
They make delicious, buttery toast sandwiches with various meats, egg, cheese, sauces, and sometimes even random corn (Korea be loving some canned corn in unexpected places), all for 2-3 bucks. Mmmmm...

Then we found the Eat Your Kimchi studio, owned by the Canadian couple who blog about Korea I met my first weekend, down the street, but we didn't see any movement in the windows, so we think nobody was there at the time.

This was on the way back to the subway station:
I have no idea what it is or what they sell.

We decided to end our day at Cheonggyecheon, where I went and was accosted by that creeper my first Friday. We bought some ddeok, or rice cakes, from a lady in the subway station and were really excited to try several different kinds:
Looks good, right? WRONG. We made a horrible mistake. Each one was worse than the next. Some tasted like flavorless rubber, bread dough, and powdered bean. You decide which was which.

Cheonggyecheon did not disappoint, of course:

Yay, so fun! But still pretty tired from adventuring so much. I still haven't begun on Sunday...phew. I've got another quiz on Wednesday, but found out I got full points on my quizzes last Friday!








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