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Cafes, palaces, celebrities, and free soda - just my normal life in Seoul

My friend Changyong and I have been meeting up to study English/Korean and enjoy good conversation this past week. Since cafe culture is very strong in Seoul, we often end up in a cafe at one point or another.

This one is very near Daeheung Station, called SoomDo, or Soom Island. It had a quiet atmosphere where we could actually hear each other talk, so it was pretty good. And yes, that is a giant reading lizard on the railing.

Changyong invited me to visit his district on the outskirts of Seoul. It's a smaller, quieter area, and he said he's only seen 10-11 foreigners there in the whole time he's lived there, so people be staring! I didn't mind, but the subway station was almost completely empty - cue horror movie music in my mind.

One of my favorite things to eat around Daeheung is kalgooksoo, but when Changyong and I tried to go there the other night, it was packed out, so we settled for egg-wrapped kimbap. Very delicious, but a little disappointing because I was ready to eat kalgooksoo made by grandmothers.

I met up with a friend I met at my first language exchange meeting, Jung Hoon 정훈, for dinner and Deoksugung 덕수궁.

We ate samgyupsal 삼겹살! I love making lettuce wraps. That light yellow thing in the stone bowl to the left is steamed egg, which was really delicious too.

After dinner nearby, we went to see Deoksugung, but it was pouring down by that point. Also, there was a protest going on at nearby City Hall, which happens often, but some of the protestors were seeking refuge from the rain under the main gate, so it got kind of crowded at the front. It slowed down, so we went inside, but it started pouring again soon after. The good part is that there weren't many people there, though.

The palace was great. The rain was not.

It finally cleared up, so it was nice.

Whenever I go to a palace in Korea, I'm fascinated by the grand traditional buildings with a backdrop of modern Seoul.

Inside the main throne room - less grand than the other palaces, but I think that's the charm of Deoksugung.

This weekend after class, I went with Michelle and my 3 German friends - let's give them names, shall we? Maren, Lyza Bee, and Greta - to Edae for some shopping and general shenanigans. We actually all found some clothes (sometimes Korean street clothes sizes can be difficult for foreigners) and a lot of really great Engrish:

This had to be my favorite of the night.

However, our revelries were cut short by more pouring rain, so we sought refuge in the nearby Cafe Zoo, which is close to the front gates of Ehwa Women's University. The cafe was so-so, but had decent drinks. We weren't too impressed until we ran across this. In the bathroom.

So you can pull up a chair and chill out with your drink...in the bathroom?

So what else to do in the weirdy bathroom but take a group selca!?

Saturday morning, our dorm was going to be without power from 8am - 5pm, but we were told the cafeteria would have power after 8am, so Michelle and I planned to take our studying there to enjoy lights and air con. We even woke up early on a Saturday so that we could get ready and be down to the cafeteria before the power cut out.

They lied. There was no power in the cafeteria. And this was breakfast. Luke-warm fried rice and milk, nasty white bread, and cold cereal. Just eating to live at this point.

Saturday afternoon, I heard about a record store in Sinchon nearby that would have Korean indie bands that can be harder to find, so I ventured out near Sinchon metro station to try to find it. I never did find it, but I found some make-up shops to look around in. I had completely forgotten that there was also the Watergun Festival there this weekend, so they were setting up and people were lining up with super soakers all around. Near the U-Plex, I saw a crowd gathering around a stage sponsored by Sprite. And right in the middle, I saw a small group of what looked like stylists and managers. Suddenly they all left and only one girl was left standing in the middle, which must have felt awkward, and who should it be but...Suzy. Yep, I saw Suzy in Sinchon at the U-Plex less than 100 feet away from me. Drinking Sprite, of course.

Because you drink Sprite when you're standing in the middle of a crowd staring at you. Sounds like fun.

Whenever she turned toward my side of the crowd, everybody went "와아아..." (Waaah). That was pretty funny.

This was the best of her face, but sorry it's blurry!

The funniest part of this was that just the day before in class when we were role-playing, a classmate named Charlie had picked Suzy as his favorite celebrity, and when somebody else asked the person playing her to do something, he would say, "Say no! 안돼! (Don't!)" I felt bad that he couldn't be there. Sorry, friend!

This weekend our school took us to a rehearsal of Inkigayo, a K-pop music show, so we got to wait over an hour before we went in. We can't complain, since other fans would often come to wait at 6-7am

Waiting with friends makes the time go quicker.

However, the sad end to this story is that we only got to be inside for 20 minutes before we were quickly ushered out. In those 20 minutes, we saw only rookie groups perform. I suppose we were lucky because we saw short interviews with Block B and Sistar, both of whom I've never seen in person, but we didn't get to see either perform. It kind of felt like a waste. Oh well, we're luckier than some.

Afterward, we went for a late lunch at a kimbap/ramen shop. We all love Korean food and can tolerate a fair amount of spice, so we were eating, talking and laughing throughout our meal. I didn't notice it at the time, but an older Korean man was watching us (some would say creepily) throughout our meal. After we ate, he returned to the shop and presented us with a large bottle of Coca-Cola and said in some English that he enjoyed watching us foreigners eat the spicy food and, and I quote, have a "traumatic experience"...hmmm...I just remember eating some of my favorite food deliciously. We first checked to make sure the seal on the bottle was intact, because stranger danger, and then enjoyed our free drinks.

We were all a little more than confused. Since I hadn't noticed the man, I had no idea what was going on. Also, since he spoke some English, we wonder what all of our conversation he understood.



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Sometimes we have fun in class

I know I'm here in a program to learn Korean, but I appreciate it so much more when we take fun breaks and can learn in fun ways. It was our classmate Manon's birthday this past week, so our teacher let us have a little party while we were reviewing for our quiz that day.

First we sang Happy Birthday in Korean - "생일 축하합니다" (saengil chukahamnida).

Then our teacher made a stack of snack cakes called "Oh Yes" (yup, that's the real name) and lit some candles. That's a common thing to do, except usually with Choco Pies.

Blowing out the candles!

We went to a cooking class in Edae one day this week for our culture class. We made 해물 파전 (haemul pajeon, seafood and green onion pancake) and 닭찜(dakjjim, braised chicken and vegetables). It was so delicious!

Making haemul pajeon...mmm...

Cooking chicken for the dakjjim

I like Korean pancakes!

Getting my mixing on.

Eating the fruits of our labors with class and teammates Carrie and Kinga.

Still eating with another class/teammate Taylor.

Even in all our fun, we still have to take tests. Here's the last quiz I took. 30/30!


One day our teacher asked us who our favorite celebrity was without explaining why. We didn't find out for a few days when our teacher showed up with these little beauties:

We got to role-play as celebrities in order to practice asking each other if they wanted to do different activities together. Why yes, that is Lee Kwang Soo 이광수 on my head.

I was Sarah's celebrity Lee Kwang Soo 이광수, and she was my favorite: Sung Si Kyung 성시경.


Charlie was not as excited to be Sung Si Kyung.

This past Friday, we attended a special lecture by an American professor at Seoul National University who rebuilt his own hanok (한옥), or Korean traditional home. Before the lecture, I noticed these guys in another class having a special moment:

Sharing earbuds = BFF


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Soap On a Stick

This is common in Korea. That blue thing hanging from the side is a bar of soap. It's stuck around a little metal arm that extends out from the sink, but before you feel strange about it, just know that I'm happy to see soap in any variety, because in a few cases, there's none.




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Changdeokgung, Secret Garden and a little Hongdae

I'd gone to a palace called 창덕궁, or Changdeokgung, last year and really liked it - even though it's not the biggest or main palace, it has the most original buildings from the time period it was built in. However, I was not able to go to a place known as 후원, Huwon, also known as the Secret Garden. You're only allowed to enter if you go on a special tour, and there are limited spots and only 3 English tours offered a day. So with limited time here to sightsee, I knew it was one thing I wanted to visit.

The main gate of Changdeokgung, with what appears to be corn stalks (not really) in front of it.

I didn't spend too much time in most of the palace since I had to be at the Secret Garden tour by a certain time, but I had to stop by the main throne room.

I love all the little details of the palaces as much or more than the actual buildings. I can't quite remember, but I think these have titles on them, so the person holding the title/position stood in that place.

Inside the main throne room

I think I'm in love with palace and traditional korean home (한옥 hanok) roof shapes

Buildings off to the side of the throne room - I was in such a rush I couldn't stop by to look at the explanatory signs.

On the path to the Secret Garden. It was a bit hilly, but mostly in the shade.

At our first stop, there was a pretty pond with a tree in the middle. It was peaceful there.

I liked all the colors painted on the pavilion :)

Just some person I didn't know on my tour, but the idea of sitting there overlooking the pond seemed right.

Another pond with a tiny pavilion. I think I'm a bit obsessed with Korean architecture near water.

But this one is definitely my favorite :D

A gate into the crown prince's housing quarters. They built this not in the style of a palace, but in like a nobleman's house in the gardens behind the palace.

I liked this building in the crown prince's compound a lot.

We weren't allowed to go up these steps, but I really wanted to if only just for the beauty.

On the side of the palace coming out of the Secret Garden, we saw the Throne Room from afar. That tree on the right is a 750 year-old juniper tree that is one of the famous symbols in Korea. They say you can see a monkey head in that little part of the trunk that juts out at the bottom.

And at the top, the trunk is supposed to look like an elephant.

Michelle and I have gone to a couple more language exchange meetings in Hongdae on Monday evenings. We always plan to only stay for about an hour, but then we end up staying for 2-3 hours. We just know we should plan for that now. The first time Michelle came, we were a bit nervous because it was really packed and it seemed a lot of people were in conversations already, so we finally found a free table and sat down by ourselves. After talking to each other and looking around sheepishly for a few minutes, a brother and sister came to sit at our table. The older brother, 창용 (Changyong), sat on my side of the table and the younger sister, 지우, Jiwoo, sat by Michelle. Changyong speaks quite a bit of English, so our conversation was mostly in English, with a smattering of Korean. Jiwoo does not speak very much English, so Michelle got a lot of practice in Korean, which is what she really wanted, so it worked out well. Also, our personalities matched well with the sibling we spoke most with - as Changyong has later said, we just clicked.

I've met up with Changyong this past week more than once, and I can't say enough nice things. He's a good student (in English) and a great friend.

This was the first time Changyong and I met up outside of the language exchange. We got Japanese food, which was pretty much Japanese flavor of Korean bibimbap, or mixed rice. It still tasted good though. We also went to a little cafe nearby that played the greatest hits of Air Supply.

Store seen in Hongdae. Turns out it's really a dog grooming business. No jokes, please.

Our second trip to language exchange last week was not so successful at first. We talked to a couple of nice Korean girls and one really awkward Australian man, but Changyong was more successful and thankfully he invited us to join him and his new friends for dinner afterwards. Everyone was so nice!

This was in one of the bathrooms in Hongdae. Can you feel it?

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