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My favorite Samgyetang (chicken ginseng soup) restaurant

Koreans will tell you that you need to eat samgyetang around 4 times each summer to regain energy lost in the extreme heat. When I get a samgyetang craving - and believe me, these urges are real - my favorite place in Seoul is called Baekje Samgyetang in Myeongdong. I know there are places more famous and possibly more delicious (not sure how though), but when I went a few times last year and now 3 times in 1 1/2 weeks this year, it's consistently delicious. The chicken is so tender, the broth is nice and flavorful, and they don't skimp on the ginseng and sticky rice inside the chicken. Also, they now recognize me - they remembered my friend Michelle and I from last year, even.


The main sign is in Chinese, so unless you can speak/read that, it might be tricky to find at first, so here's how to get there:

Get off at Myeongdong station, which is on Seoul metro line 4, and come out at exit #6. Actually, I don't often pay attention to the exact number, but it's quite easy to just follow the big crowd - they're getting off at exit #6 every time, I promise. It leads you right to the main shopping street.

This is a bad shot of the main shopping drag. What you can't see is that there's a huge multistory Nature Republic on your left and a UNIQLO on your right.

Just go straight down this street for a few blocks. Again, I wish I could be more specific, but I'm usually looking at all the shops on the way. When you see a large La Neige makeup store on your left (and usually a sign and person in a cat costume for a cat cafe), go down the smaller street to your left.

Hang a left here.

It's not a long street, so about halfway you'll see a big sign with big Chinese characters about the level of the second floor on your right. Go in that building and go up to the second floor.

Here's the building!

You'll see this sign as soon as you enter the building. 2F just means it's on the second floor, so head on up.

Follow the arrow inside for some real good food.

Someone will greet you at the door, so just indicate, in either Korean or Cantonese (most people speak Chinese here) or just by holding up fingers, how many people are in your group. Do not be ashamed if you're by yourself - I've done it here before, and I'll probably do it again.

They'll give you a menu, which has several varieties of samgyetang. I always stick to the classic samgyetang, which is 14,000 won (about $14 USD), because why mess with perfection. It's the second one down on the menu. I don't even look at it anymore, so I can't tell you what other kinds there are.

Then get your taste buds ready, because you never have to wait long for the food, which is one perk of going to a restaurant that specializes in one type of food - they're always preparing it fresh.  They'll bring you the banchan, or side dishes, first with a cup of water and a small shot of something which I believe is ginseng infused alcohol. I just leave that last thing alone though.

Get out your spoon and chopsticks from the drawer in the table. They'll usually take out some salt/seasoning and a small box of tissues for you, I think.

The food's here! It's a whole little chicken in there!

Because pictures can't contain the bubbling hotness...

If you're not used to eating meat off the bone with chopsticks, it can be a little intimidating at first, but by the end of my very first chicken, I got the hang of it. You can put a bone in your mouth to suck the meat off and then throw the bones and any other part of the chicken you don't want to eat (i.e. skin, etc.) in the little plastic lined bin on your table (see picture below - it's on the right side). Use your spoon to support it if you can't get a good handle on it with your chopsticks, and feel free to bring it over to the empty little bowl you're given if you need to. I like to get a little rice and chicken onto my spoon together. Also, eat the ginseng, jujube (which has a seed, so be aware), and whatever else is in the chicken - it's part of what's good for you in this soup. The ginseng is supposed to give you energy, so if you eat it later at night, be you might not fall asleep right away.

I ate the whole thing like it was my job. It wasn't even a struggle.




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2 comments:

MoM said...

A picture of the soup boiling!! Unbelievable!! You did that just to make me drool on the keyboard didn't you?

SSS said...

I bet that tastes really good. You are going to be fluent in tons of languages before long.

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